New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is gready saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements.
A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.
The vertical profiles of longshore currents have been examined experimentally over plane and barred beaches. In most cases, the vertical profiles of longshore currents are expressed by the logarithmic law. The power law is not commonly used to describe the profile of longshore currents. In this paper, however, a power-type formula is proposed to describe the vertical profiles of longshore currents. The formula has two parameters: the power law index (a) and the depth-averaged velocity. Based on previous studies, power law indices were set as a=1/10 and a=1/7. Depth-averaged velocity can be obtained through measurement. The fitting of the measured velocity profiles to a=1/10 and a=1/7 was assessed for the vertical longshore profiles. The vertical profile of longshore currents is well described by the power-type formula with a=1/10 for a plane beach. However, for a barred beach, different values of a needed to be used for different regions. For the region from the bar trough to the offshore side of the bar crest, the vertical profiles of longshore currents given by the power-type formula with a=1/10 and a=1/7 fit the data well. However, the fit was slightly better with a=1/10 than that with a=1/7. For the data over the trough region of cross-shore distribution of the depth-averaged longshore currents, the power formula with a=1/3 provided a good fit. The formulas with a=1/10 and a=1/7 were further examined using published data from four sources covering laboratory and field experiments. The results indicate that the power-type formula fits the data well for the laboratory and field data with a=1/10.
